what Africa needs...

Okay. So I may be a little slow. It has taken a while to sink in.

Maybe it should have dawned on me when I was at the Serengeti visitor center (a lovely facility funded by the $50 per person park fee paid by tens of thousands of annual visitors and kept spotlessly clean by a well fed team of rock hyraxes and dwarf mongooses—mongeese?) and half way through a much needed pee break I felt a warm sensation between my toes. The brand shiny new urinal I was using drained into a pristine stainless steel pipe, which went down to the floor… where the urine was directed onto my foot.

And maybe It should have hit me when I went to Uganda Interpol to get my fingerprints done (just as I had to get fingerprinted by the California state police to get a clearance before coming over here, VSO wanted me to get fingerprinted just to make sure that I hadn’t committed any crimes during my sojourn here in Uganda—never mind that there is no computer fingerprint database in Uganda and this set of prints will no doubt be filed by date or color in an ever-expanding, completely useless collection of never to be seen again charcoal smudges). After all ten digits had been smeared in tenacious ink and ceremoniously rolled in various orientations across the card I was directed ‘down the hall’ to where I could ‘wash my hands.’ As I walked down the hall I noticed that the walls seemed to be decorated with long swathes of parallel quadruple streaks of black. The sink was broken. There were no paper towels. I was wearing khaki pants and what once was a white shirt.

And certainly I had a glimmer of recognition when I tried out the shower in my new housing arrangement, which, as is typical, is without a shower pan and flows directly to the floor and theoretically into the bathroom’s floor drain. The floor drain, however, seems to be situated at the high point for the entire house. So any shower lasting more than 30 seconds floods the living room.

And a nascent revelation began to solidify while I was working in the casualty unit at Mulago, a four bed (and I use the word bed loosely under the definition of slightly elevated flat surface), two room unit where hundreds of injured people are cared for daily. I came to the realization that—due to a lone sink out of which, when it works, you can only coax a trickle of toxic looking black effluent—I was working in a place where blood literally flows more freely than water.

But it finally hit me while I was at IHK (according to Wikipedia, an ‘upscale, tertiary care medical facility’), in the A&E and I went to wash my hands and, after filling my hands with liquid soap from the dispenser which, uncharacteristically, had soap in it, I had to go from one broken sink, to another, to another, before I finally could rinse the sticky goo from my hands:

VSO and all the other aid organizations are going about this all wrong.

Africa doesn’t need our doctors. Africa needs our plumbers.

Seriously. Africa trains a boatload of doctors a year (a boat steaming, for the most part, away from the continent). But maybe more of them would want to stay and work in their home country hospitals if they knew that they might be able to wash their hands after caring for an infectious patient, or if they knew they didn’t have to go into urinary retention during their twelve hour shift because there was a functional toilet somewhere in their workplace.

And, for about the millionth year in a row, the first or second leading cause of death in children under 5 is diarrhea—or, as they like to say in England and Uganda, where vowels are cheaper, diarrhoea. I know, diarrhea isn’t as sexy and topical as HIV. The Gates Foundation hasn’t recently announced a multi-billion dollar campaign to eradicate diarrhea (as it has for malaria). But diarrhea kills kids—1.5 million of them a year (and an estimated 2 billion people will suffer from diarrhea every year). And you don’t need expensive medicines and doctors to combat diarrhea (with all due respect to Dr. Paul Offit and the new rotavirus vaccine). You need plumbers. You need a safe, reliable water supply. You need a way to direct sewage away from that safe and reliable water supply. And once all that is in place, having a way to wash ones hands before meals would also be a lifesaver. Plumbing. It’s all about the plumbing.

I know that by saying this, I am decreasing my chances of ever being invited back. Unless I decide to get a job as a plumber’s apprentice upon my imminent return to the states. But, in part, this has come to me because I think the doctors here have known this (plumbers, not doctors) all along. Or maybe they haven’t had the revelation, they are just tired of foreign doctors showing up and telling them how much better things could be if they only had a little running water and an MRI scanner.

When I tell a Ugandan doctor that my specialty is emergency medicine the typical reaction is an amused smile or a suppressed laugh. In their world, emergency medicine is a task left to the interns—immediate post-graduates from medical school, the lowest link in the food-chain. ‘He must be really stupid,’ I can hear them thinking, or saying, ‘If he never made it out of Accident and Emergency. Who would choose a practice where mostly all you do is watch people die. And even if they survive, they have no money to pay you.’

Not that there aren’t things a Ugandan doctor could learn from a foreign doctor. If they were willing to set aside the monster ego they have developed to shield themselves from the desperate state of medical care here.

Case in point. One of our volunteers got a puncture wound to her foot. It hurt. For a few days. She went to one of the mad expat mzungu doctors recommended in the VSO Uganda handbook. She underwent what, in a civilized country, would amount to torture and medical malpractice. Her foot swelled up to twice its normal size. Two of her toes went numb and white. She wound up in the hospital on IV antibiotics. One of the drips infiltrated into her subcutaneous tissue and her arm also ballooned frighteningly.

About this time Nancy visited. As most of you know, Nancy is an orthopaedic surgeon specializing in the foot and ankle. So, for the few weeks of her visit, she would have been, by far, the most uniquely qualified person to care for this problem in the country, if not all of East Africa (if she were licensed to practice medicine in Uganda). She looked at our friend’s foot and felt that, even though the swelling had gone way down and the doctors wanted to discharge her, there was still a nidus of infection. She recommended a surgery to open and wash out (we call this irrigating) the wound.

Reluctantly, the medical team requested a surgical consult. The hospital’s chief surgeon was called in. Instead of a surgery, he said that all he’d need to do would be to pull the scab off the wound at the bedside, ‘so it could drain.’ When asked about how he planned to anesthetize the foot, he basically said that it was going to hurt and she would just have to suck it up. Needless to say, after having been recently tortured in a similar way by another doctor practicing antiquated medicine, our friend was reluctant to undergo this bedside procedure.

In short, here was a highly regarded surgeon who, even though he now practices in an ‘upscale tertiary care hospital’ that aspires to ‘international standards,’ was unwilling to put aside bad habits from his intern days at Mulago and try to learn from a visiting surgeon with years’ more experience and specialized expertise in the patient’s problem.

But, I digress.

My point here is. Maybe we need to rethink the model of sending doctors to places without consistently running water. Maybe we need to get the sinks in the hospitals working so that the doctors that are already there can wash their hands. And maybe we need to consider whether the host country is ready for the western (or northern, whatever) medicine specialty being proffered by the volunteer—maybe Uganda isn’t quite ready for emergency medicine yet, maybe we need to flood UTV with ER episodes for a few more years.

Oh yeah. In case you were wondering about my fellow volunteer’s foot. Eventually surgery was performed. Nancy’s assessment proved to be accurate. There was an infection that went nearly all the way through the foot. And even though his assessment and initial plan were incorrect, the surgeon's ego still prevented him from learning from the experience. He refused to open the foot as Nancy recommended and refused to fully irrigate the wound. The patient is back in the UK. Here’s to her full recovery.

brief update

Sorry the blog seems to be languishing at the moment.
Don't be dismayed, there is plenty more cynical and injurious reflection left in me.
But Nancy and I have been having a great time exploring all the bits of uganda I haven't had a chance to see yet. And today we are off to Tanzania to see if we can check in on the migrating Wildebeest!
Cheers!

for more pics of our latest roadtrip!

Nancy goes on Safari!

The rare Murchison Falls rock climbing hippo!

our first leopard spotting...

Nancy wasted no time at demonstrating superior safari karma, as she managed to spot a leopard (so to speak) on her first morning out. Above she has a visit with Bella and her baby Augusto at the Ziwa rhino sanctuary. And below, one of the 3 male lions we saw fighting for the affections of the lioness three pics below.

do these spots make by butt look big?


Nancy at the top of Murchison Falls.

For more pictures of the trip, click here!

signing off for a while...

Nancy flew into Entebbe last night, after a brief stopover to visit Anabelle in Paris, and a quick plane change in Amsterdam. We treated her to the burning piles of trash tour of the Entebbe Road at night.

At the moment she’s back at the ranch taking a nap, but when she wakes up we’ll start checking out Kampala, and then greater Uganda. All this to say that the free time I would usually spend reflecting on the condition and meaning of life as manifested in rambling blog posts of questionable coherency will now be spent entertaining Nancy and making it up to her for leaving her alone in San Francisco for much of the past year. As such, this is likely to be the last posting for a while.

We are bound for the wine garage tonight and Murchison Falls for the weekend—hoping for some good safari karma, some rain-free mornings, and a kilometer or two of pothole free road.

On the housing front, we are still squatting at the old house. I did get an email from VSO last Thursday saying: “Hello Rob. Hope you are well, am writing to inform you that your house where you will be moving to is ready as per today i.e. its located in kironde in the same compound with the Cowans, hope you are ready to move please try to pass by office to receive the keys…” Needless to say, this piqued my interest, so I did pass by office to receive keys, and dropped by my new digs just to check things out. And, as you might expect, the place wasn’t quite ready for occupancy: the power was off, the water was off, there was no furniture other than a single bed, a small plastic table and four plastic chairs (this is a 2 bedroom house that I am going to share with another VSO couple, Richard and Pat, who apparently didn’t learn their lessons during their first placement and so are being forced to repeat them….), and there was not a single lightbulb to be found in the house. And, oh yeah, the place was a filthy mess.

So, as you might expect, I didn’t move in. Instead I wrote a polite email back pointing out the problems with the space that would need to be corrected to make it habitable. But I did cc the email to Richard. And apparently this struck a nerve because in September of ’08 they had been dumped into the exact same sort of situation at 5pm on a Friday night and were left to fend for themselves. So Richard shot off a rather scathing reply and cc’d to Kevin (IMG’s CEO) and Benon (director of VSO Uganda) saying something about turning right around and getting back on the plane… And apparently this got some people yelled at and rousted from their Easter Monday holiday, and this has made me immensely unpopular around the VSO and the IHK HR offices. Without even really trying.

I ran into Richard and Pat in the hall today (they are off on a drive to Lira tonight and back tomorrow, with Kevin, a punishment in its own right) and they suggested that the house might be ready to move into by the weekend…

And, in another interesting development, it appears that my little blog has come under scrutiny by the senior management of the hospital. The head of HR e-vited me into her office to “discuss your work in IHK, its value to both parties and agree on way froward/ specific achievable goals…” Appealing premise to address in the waning days of my placement, to say the least. It came out that although she herself had not read Random Uganda, others who had were afraid that my ‘cynical’ point of view might be ‘injurious’ to the Hospital. I explained to her that yes, I am a cynic by nature, but that I tried to find humor and amusement where I could find it. And I am not trying to be injurious to anyone, merely reflective on my own position here.

But it does beg the question. If the truth is injurious to an organization, what should that organization’s response be?

I will think about that. I will let you think about that. I am off to spend some time with the most beautiful, loving and understanding woman in the world.

Plight of the Bodas (part 2, up close and personal)

The boda boda crackdown (see previous post, plight of the bodas) has eased up. Unlicensed, unhelmeted bodas have returned as the majority. Still, even without the police harassment, the life of a boda driver, despite the cachet of riding a motorbike for a living, is a hard one. Fuel prices in Kampala have shot up six or seven hundred shillings a liter in the last few weeks, eating into narrow profit margins. (most of the drivers rent their Indian made Bajaj Boxer 5 bikes for about 40000 shillings a day, making it twenty 2000 shilling trips just to pay the owner of the bike) And one slight misjudgment at one of the many universally disregarded traffic lights can land them on one of the cushionless blood stained gurneys in Mulago’s casualty ward.

One of my fellow VSO volunteers has fallen for her boda driver. Michael is an affable young man with a tight leather jacket and a winning smile. It is good to see them together. I’m jealous, among other things, that, after only a few months, she’s conversant in Lugandan, while I’m still stuck in the basic phrases and counting to 9 that I sort of learned my first few days in Uganda.

Last Saturday night we had an eviction party. (Dorothy had told us we’d be kicked out last Friday, but, as of this writing, the sheriff has yet to come beating on the door, and alternative housing has yet to fully materialize, so I guess, at the moment, we are squatting) A good number of my fellow volunteers got stranded by a rainstorm at the Wine Garage on their way to the party (fortunately, they did not suffer overly much), but a small and enthusiastic crowd made it and kept the loud music going for the neighbors until the wee hours.

And shortly after getting to bed, my phone rang. Michael had been found in a ditch by one of his fellow boda drivers, unconscious and bleeding from facial wounds. His friend Issac was called and took him to Mulago where they were unable to locate a doctor or a nurse. From Mulago they traveled to a clinic on the other end of town in Kireka where some unusually crude suturing (even by Ugandan standards) was perpetrated on his face.

I had to apologize that my alcohol level was probably not within a level you’d want your doctor’s to be. But I put her in contact with the IHK ambulance driver and, a bit later, caught a boda over to meet them at the hospital just as the sun was peeking up over the Kampala hills. Michael reclined on one of the gurneys. His head enlarged to half again its usual size. His left eye was swollen shut. Moses, our night doctor had already seen him and ordered a CT scan and neck x-rays as well as requesting consultations from a plastic surgeon and a neurosurgeon. Fearing the worst, I leaned in and called Michael’s name.

Slowly his good eye opened and focused with a hint of recognition.

He was going to be okay. But given that I wasn’t his doctor, and I was operating on a sliver of sleep and an incipient hangover, I figured it best that he go through with the CT scan. Which, not surprisingly, meant that he had to get back into the ambulance and go to a hospital with a functional CT scanner. The radiologist’s report from Kampala Hospital pointed out the obvious extracranial soft tissue swelling and some ‘mild cerebral edema,’ a finding that might be concerning in a setting other than Kampala where nearly every CT comes back with a reading of cerebral edema. To my eyes, the brain looked normal, but I have to admit that I’m out of practice reading the CT scan in multiple little 3 inch squares of film, since CT scans on film (now we read them on a monitor) disappeared from my practice 15 years ago…

So, given that Michael’s injuries were proving mostly cosmetic, the plastic surgeon swooped in for the kill. He wanted to take Michael to the operating theatre to reopen his facial wound and close it nicely. Estimated cost: another million shillings ($500, on top of the million and a half for the hospitalization and ambulance and CT). A bargain by American standards, but when you consider that VSO only gives us 500,000 shillings a month as a living allowance (and some volunteers aren’t fortunate enough to have a loving wife back home to support them in their folly, and so actually have to live within their allowance), it seems a daunting amount. And, of course, completely and utterly out of the question for a boda driver or your average Ugandan.

So stop and think about it for a couple of minutes. What would you do? Your loved one has a facial wound. There’s going to be a scar. The plastic surgeon seems very concerned (concerned enough to charge for 3, count’em 3, consultations for a 1 inch wound) and wants to make the wound look better. But it’s going to cost you another 2 months salary, on top of the 3 months you already owe. Think about it. Then pray that you never ever have to make this call.

We tried to get Michael onto the Hope Ward (IHK’s charity ward), but it was getting late in the day and Jemimah, the ward’s gatekeeper doesn’t like to work with this particular plastic surgeon due to his excessive billing issues.

At the end of the day, she took him home with the Frankensteinian sutures still in place.

I saw them on Wednesday. Michael was on his feet and looked one hundred percent better. His left eye was open and his smile was back. I wish I knew exactly how the scar is going to look a year from now. I can only hope it won’t be too bad.

Further Impressions of Mulago, Part 1

A small boy walks tentatively into Casualty. In his left hand he clutches a fiber-plastic sack of clothes, in his right, a sheaf of rain and mud speckled papers. It’s about 5pm and all four stretchers are occupied by young men either coming to grips with their newly crippled status or completely oblivious of the fact due to the severity of their head injuries. Since you seem to be only one in the crowded room who will meet the occasional upward flicker of his sunken eyes, the boy shuffles over within reach. His scalp is a flaking field of scabs. He is dirty, dehydrated, and underfed. When he raises his right hand to offer you his paperwork, the minimal weight of his hand and its contents causes his forearm to droop like Harry Potter’s after Gilderoy Lockhart accidentally removed the bones.

The papers suggest that he is twelve years old, but to your eyes he’s an eight year old boy with eighty year old eyes. He has been abused by his father and step-mother. The police intervened and he was removed from the home and placed with, well, placed in the care of the state. In a country where the state has a lot more to worry about than the well-being and whereabouts of a lone 12 year old boy.

You examine his injured right arm. Both of the bones—the radius and the ulna—have been snapped in half. Then you notice that the arm holding the bag sways unnaturally as well. Both of his arms have been broken and untreated, from the dates on the papers, for at least 10 days.

You walk the boy over to the cast room and introduce him to the orthopedic house officer. Best as you can tell from the conversation, the house officer bawls the boy out for not coming sooner—now he’ll need surgery to fix the arms.

Later you find the boy on the crowded surgical holding ward. The boy now has plaster casts on both arms to above his elbows. His look of desperation grabs you by the trachea. You go to the canteen and buy a Fanta orange and a plate of chicken and chips and bring it back to the ward, feeling guilty as you walk by nine or ten other equally hungry patients. The boy looks at the food, and then to his hands—neither of which can now even begin to approach his mouth.

To the best of your ability, you feed the boy the greasy chicken and fries. You wipe the chicken fat and dirt from the boy’s mouth with a waxy napkin. You’ve heard, but never witnessed, that you can offer the nurses a little something to get them to actually pay attention to a patient, so, even though you have sworn to yourself that you would never do this, you go looking for a nurse. But 8pm is rapidly approaching and the nurses are making an exodus. At 8pm the ward will be down to night staffing: one nurse, one intern, 30 or 40 patients.

The night nurse and intern are nowhere to be found. You understand that the intern is probably in the process of barricading himself inside his call room. Much as you wish to help the boy, you have experienced what it is like to be the lone person in a white coat on a ward full of injured and dying patients (and their families) where you don’t speak the languages and you have nothing to offer more than another bottle of normal saline (if the IV fluids have been restocked today) and a helpless facial expression. You slink out the door behind the nurses.

The next afternoon you try to track the boy to the orthopedic ward and can find no evidence that he was ever in the hospital.

A relatively calm week in Kampala

Last week was a week of mourning for the Baganda (people of the kingdom of Buganda). Many of them wore a strip of bark cloth or olubugo tied around their waist or pinned to their clothing. The inner bark of the Mutuba tree (ficus natalensis) is harvested after the rainy season and then beaten with wooden mallets to make a suede-like, terra-cotta colored cloth that swaddled and draped the Buganda royalty. The bark cloth reportedly dates back some 600 years to the second Kabaka. In more ancient times, the cloth was used as a shroud for the dead. As such the cloth is a potent symbol of Buganda culture and a sign of mourning.

The mourning Baganda also mounted photos of the Kabaka (Ronald Mutebi, king of Buganda) on their bicycles and motorcycles and matatus. The loss of the Kasubi tombs (see last week’s post) has hit the people hard. It is difficult for us to understand how people can mourn the loss of a tomb (the bodies of the four previous Kabakas, interred in the tombs, were undisturbed by the fire). In a way it seems odd to mourn for what has already been mourned for, but for the Baganda, fighting to maintain their culture in a rapidly changing world, it seems like the tombs were their link to the past glories of their kingdom. The tombs will be rebuilt. Maybe this time with better security, or wiring, but will they be the same?

On my side of town, Prasandan and I taught an ACLS-type course to the medical staff at IHK. Prasandan is the cardiac anesthetist from Kerala who has landed the unenviable task of starting the new IHK Heart Centre (this morning I asked a medical officer what the EKG showed for a patient that had gone into shock—and was told that the hospital’s lone functioning EKG machine was broken). ACLS is Advanced Cardiac Life Support and is a copyright of the American Heart Association, and, as such, if we were to teach an ACLS course here we would have to have the blessings and sanctions of the AHA, which we did not, hence ‘ACLS-type.’

ACLS mostly focuses on the skills and knowledge needed for resuscitation of people in cardiac arrest, although lately it gives some emphasis to the early treatment of heart attack and stroke as well. In a US hospital, the paramedics, most of the ER and critical care nurses, and many of the doctors would be certified in ACLS. Here in Uganda, where resuscitation is a new thing, the only people certified in ACLS are ex-pats or medical personnel that trained abroad. Given that IHK is about to become a ‘Heart Centre,’ I thought it a good idea that we begin teaching our medical staff the basics of cardiac life support. Prasandan agreed.

I will, up front, confess that my ACLS instructor certification expired during the Clinton administration. But I did manage to research the current ACLS curriculum and guidelines and put together an impressive array of shamelessly copied powerpoint slides. And our doctors stayed awake, for the most part, even after the traditional 1300hr bolus of matoke and gravy. Although they did seem amused by a few of the ACLS recommendations. For instance, the thought that you could get an EKG within five minutes of coming to the ER (at IHK, the EKG machine, when it works, is in cardiology, and you send the patient, without a monitor, to cardiology to get the EKG. The walk to cardiology alone would take up your 5 minutes). Or a head CT within 45 minutes (even if it worked, it would take that much time just to locate the key to the room). Too dang funny. What kind of stuff is the AHA smoking anyway?

My evenings in the Casualty ward at Mulago were a little less didactic. At least this week no one was shot (or, if they were, they weren’t brought to Mulago while I was in attendance). But, at one point I was taking care of 3 patients with Glasgow Coma Scales of less than 8. (the Glasgow Coma Scale or GCS was, not surprisingly developed in Scotland as a prognosticator of head injuries, anything below 9 is considered a major head injury) As is typical of my unflagging optimism, I tried to get some CT scans of my patients damaged brains. Unfortunately, the tech that runs the scanner had gone home and ‘couldn’t be called back in unless it was a true emergency…’

I have decided that I really do not wish to be around Mulago when the ‘true emergency’ comes through the doors.

Fortunately I was not at Mulago on Friday when the Baganda mourning was brought to a close and the bark cloth was unknotted and the tears were dried. The Kabaka and the Nnabagereka (his queen) came to Kasubi to officially bring an end to the mourning period. The tens of thousands of people at the site pushed forward to see the Kabaka and between 150 and 250 people were injured and 2 people trampled to death.